The Raffles Hotel is Where I Went in Singapore

We docked in Singapore at an enormous container port, from which Cunard ran a shuttle to (where else) a shopping mall.      I caught the subway there straight to the world famous Raffles Hotel, where the equally famous Singapore Sling was invented at its bar, the Long Bar, made famous by writer W. Somerset Maugham (among others).      The hotel has a rich and colorful history, dating from 1887, hosting such luminaries as Charlie Chaplin, Noel Coward, Liz Taylor, Queen Elizabeth II, and more recently, Beyonce!   In 1902, the Singapore's last wild tiger was shot to death (and made extinct) under the pool table in the Long Bar, 1910 or so is when the sling was first concocted, Asians were first admitted as guests in the 1930s, the hotel was occupied by the Japanese during WW II.   Upon the liberation of Singapore, 300 Japanese soldiers committed suicide by hand grenades in the hotel, after which it was used as a prisoner of war camp.   It's now restored to its former glory, a full city block of colonial buildings, , tropical courtyards, polished marble and polished silver.     Read expensive, and in the Long Bar at least, some of the most unfriendly ((mean?) waitstaff ever.   Granted you get spoiled by the great service on the ship, but these guys in the bar were something else!    I won't bother with the details, but the beer was $18.   I witnessed a confrontation between two ladies from the ship and their waiter.    On the way back to the ship, one of them realized she'd left her sunglasses,  I said don't bother going back,  I was sure the waiter had smashed them to bits!

Kuala Lumpur Was Another Surprise of a City!

   I don't know what I expected, but it turned out that KL, Malaysia is a big, modern city built on a hilly green landscape.  It kind of reminded me of LA.   We started our tour though outside the city at Batu Caves, one of the more, shall we say, unusual spots I've ever been.   They are a huge natural limestone formation, 100 meters tall, into which Hindu Temples have been built.     Light filters in from openings above, and in addition to Hindu worshippers and us,  there were creepy little monkeys everywhere.   Quite atmospheric!      The week before we were there a festival had taken place with a million and a half participants.    The main feature of the event is that people are pierced here and there, with offerings some how attached and suspended between them.   Not to be missed, but miss it we did!    It was steamy hot,  occasional drips of water hit you, lots of chanting, recorded Hindu music, incense, and those creepy filthy monkeys everywhere-- I loved it.  I was glad there was someone with hand sanitizer on board the bus.   From there to the lobby of the Petronas Towers,  at the base of which there was of course a shopping mall, a cave of a whole different sort!    We spent the rest of the afternoon in Chinatown, for shopping, where I promptly found a sidewalk cafe and had a couple of ice cold Tiger beers.

Georgetown, Panang Island, Malaysia

Georgetown was a really fun port.  We docked right in town,  greeted by raucous drumming,and pretty Malay women at the end of the gangplank.   The city is named after England"s George III,  and was founded in the 1786 by the British East India Co.   It was recently named a UNESCO World Heritage site, in recognition of it's well preserved historic core.   It wasn't until the middle of the 20th century that it lost it's status as a British colony.   The population is a mix of Chinese, Indian, Malay and expats from the world over-- a diverse group, readily seen all over this compact city.   Along one street, Kapitan Keling, a Mosque, an Anglican Church and a Chinese Temple coexist in apparent harmony.   Enjoy the photos, as I did wandering about this surprise of a city.   Who knew it even existed! 

The Biggest Incense Ever, at the Chinese Temple, Georgetown

At the Mosque, Wash Your Feet Here!

Here's Where the British Worshipped

Making Leis at the Flower Market, Georgetown

Phuket, Thailand

Phuket is the beach resort that was destroyed by the infamous tsunami of three years ago.   It has been completely rebuilt, with prominent evacuation route signs posted.  Conveniently, hills are right next to town!   It is your typical island resort, full of backpackers, sun worshippers, street vendors, tuk-tuks, motor scooters, and prostitutes!   Loads of fun if that's what your after.   I should have found someone to head off around the island with-- there's a game reserve with elephants. and a giant Buddha, but I contented myself with a wander about town, then back to the ship for lunch (never say no to a free lunch).  I enjoyed the tender ride to shore and back so much I did it twice more!   We pulled anchor at 7 p.m. and it was off to our next port of Georgetown, Panang, Malaysia, which proved to be much more interesting.

The Route of QM2 From Cochin, India stopping at Phuket, Thailand; Penang and Port Kelang, Malysia

Cochin, India

After three full days at sea, spent doing I don't know what, but the days sped by, we arrived at dawn at Cochin, India.   We were to have originally docked in Mumbai, but according to Cunard we were unable to obtain  docking space there.    I don't buy it, my hunch is that there was concern about possible terror danger at Mumbai.   In any case, disappointment aside, I spent a really nice day in Cochin.   I had spent a year in New Delhi at the age of fifteen, so I had some idea what to expect.    Cochin is in the far south of India, therefor tropical, as would be the rest of our ports, save Hong Kong.   Cochin was colonized by the Portuguese in the early 1500s (Vasco da Gama died here), who were chased out by the Dutch in the 1600s, who were chased out by the British in the 1800's, who were chased out by the Indians in the 1900s.  The region grows spices and peppercorns, the trade of which was the reason for all the foreign interest.    The Jewish population gained control over that trade.    The quarter in which they lived is called Jew Town (!) and that's where the best shopping is today,  so that's where I went!     There's a Jewish Cemetery, a Synagog, a Catholic Basilica, a Dutch palace, a Portuguese fort, a Hindu temple and Chinese fishing nets, all within a kilometer of each other.  Fun, eh?   Rode around in Tuk- tuks, terribly polluting little three wheeled vehicles,  drank chai, took photos, bought a few things and made it back to the ship on time!    In port, directly aft of us was a French yacht, Le Ponant, which had been hijacked by Somali pirates in April, 2008.  A ransom  had been paid for its release, then French Commandos went after the hijackers, killing some of the them, and recovering some of the money.    Our departure from Cochin was gregarious , with thousands lining the shore, and the ships whistle blasting!  

A Tuk-tuk is the Way to Get Around in Cochin!

Lots of Crows in India

Le Ponant, This Yacht Had Been Captured by Pirates!

Dubai Is An Odd Place.

It's black and white from Muscat to Dubai.  While the former is populated by friendly Omanis,  the  work force of Dubai is 99 percent foreigners, largely of Phillipino, Indonesian or Pakistani origin.   All very friendly and helpful, mind you, but you don't run into many resident nationals.   What I saw in a day was of coarse limited.   I was excited to see the QE2, docked in front of us at Port Rashid.   Cunard ran a free shuttle to a shopping mall (gleaming new),  which happened to be on Dubai's newly opened metro line.    I took it out past a row of skyscrapers and a ten lane highway to the world's tallest building,  Burj Tower, to see if I could get to the top.   The underground station at the mall is perhaps the most beautiful new one I've ever seen,  all bathed in serene blue.    The tower has it's own stop, and, of coarse, it's own shopping mall.  Dubai's malls are famously huge and over the top, this was no exception--the world's largest!.      It was a short walk across  a sandy landscape, there was no entry into it save down a ramp into the parking garage, then a long and winding stroll to the far side where the tickets are sold.    Dubai is in a terrible recession as you know, the shops are all high end and were notably empty, I thought.   But not the ticket counter for the At The Top Experience, as they call it.    They were selling tickets  at $40 for three days later, or for immediate entry, about $120.    I thought about a minute, said well I'm here, could have spent $270 for tea at the sail-shaped hotel on the Cunard tour, go for it!      The tower is now called Burj Khalifa, in a humiliating bit of bad timing it's opening coincided with a $15 billion bailout courtesy of neighboring Abu Dhabi's ruler Sultan Khalifa.   The only bit of the tower to open was the observation level, which is not At The Top, but rather floor 124 of 160.     It was January 27 the day I was there,  on Feb 9, the elevator "malfunctioned",  to the sound of an explosion, broken glass and smoke.   They had to lower a ladder into the shaft to evacuate the terrified passengers.  The tower is now indefinitely closed.  ,  So I'm really glad I did it!    The tower from the outside is really, really beautiful--like from Metropolis.    It resembles a bit Frank LLoyd Wright's design for a mile high skyscraper,  though it's just over half a mile at 2,717 feet.   Twice the height of the World Trade Center,  and much taller the rest of Dubai's skyline, which is now plagued with idled cranes.  The view was murked up by haze, what was really obvious was that the city is very unfinished and very sandy!    I wouldn't want to live there, imagine 110 degrees and a sand storm!   Yikes!   It was fun and at the same time creepy to be up there,  what really creeped me out though was the elevator.   It was tiny, they said it was the world's fastest, at 25 mph, was lined with glass, behind which LEDS flashed and videos played, touting the buildings real estate for sale, all to soft Arabian music.  It took a long minute!     After descending (without incident, thankfully)   I went back to the metro, where I talked to an American engineer who said that 95 percent of construction was stopped, that the interior of the tower is unfinished, and that it was depressing to be in Dubai at the moment.    Took the Metro to the old part of the city, which was a lot more interesting, really.   Dubai was founded on trade, and here, along Dubai Creek is where you'll see all kinds of old wooden boats, piled high with goods.        Strolled around a bit,  then back to home on QM2!

Entry to Dubai Metro